Large Ficus lyrata at Parque Botánico de Maspalomas, with a branching trunk and a dense crown of fiddle-shaped leaves.
Photo: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz — CC BY-SA 3.0

Family · Moraceae

Fiddle-leaf fig

Ficus lyrata Warb.

Banjo fig

Synonyms: Ficus pandurata

At a glance

Grown
Indoors or outdoors depending on climateOutdoors year-round if winter lows stay above 30 °F
Light
Bright indirect light
Water
Moderate watering
Difficulty
Intermediate
Comfortable temperatures
64–81 °F
Avoid below
55 °F
Height in cultivation
2–10 ft
Hardiness
Down to 30 °F
Toxicity
Toxic to cats and dogs

In these collectionsHouseplantsOutdoor plants

The fiddle-leaf fig, Ficus lyrata, commands attention with large, leathery leaves and strongly impressed veins. This tropical tree can become an imposing houseplant, but it reacts sharply to sudden changes in light, temperature, and moisture around its roots.

Identification and origin

Ficus lyrata belongs to the mulberry family, Moraceae. Its native range spans wet tropical forests of western and west-central Africa, from Benin to Sierra Leone. There it becomes a large tree and may begin life as a hemiepiphyte, established on another plant until its roots reach the ground.

Indoors it keeps an upright habit, often with little branching while young, and commonly reaches 2–10 ft. Its alternate, thick, dark green leaves have a puckered surface, heart-shaped base, and wavy margins. Each blade broadens toward the end and narrows around the middle, recalling a fiddle or lyre, and may reach about 18 in. Pale, deeply impressed veins add to the bold outline.

The trunk and branches contain white latex. Tiny flowers remain enclosed within the fleshy fig receptacle, which later becomes a rounded fruit. Flowers and fruit are rare indoors. Its synonym is Ficus pandurata.

Light

Place this fig in bright, filtered light near a clear window. An acclimated plant can take gentle sun, but intense rays through glass may scorch its leaves. A sheer curtain can soften them. Turn the container gradually for balanced growth.

Too little light leads to smaller leaves, slow growth, and pale foliage. By contrast, dry bleached patches on the exposed side may point to excessive direct sun. If the plant spends summer outdoors, choose a sheltered position and increase exposure in stages. Leaves made indoors are not prepared for an immediate move into full sun.

Watering

Allow the surface to dry slightly and confirm with a finger that it no longer feels damp. Water the whole root ball slowly, let excess drain, and empty the saucer. Demand changes with conditions, so the mix is a better guide than a calendar.

During active spring and summer growth, the root ball can remain lightly moist but never saturated. In fall and winter the plant uses less water; wait for clearer surface drying without letting the entire root ball become dusty. Leaf drop can result from either excess water or prolonged dryness. Check moisture deeper in the pot and inspect root health before changing care.

Medium to high humidity helps prevent crisp margins. Keep foliage away from heaters and wipe dust away with a damp cloth, without leaf-shine products.

Potting mix

Use a rich, loam-based but airy mix that retains some moisture. Fine bark and a free-draining amendment improve airflow. A slightly acidic to neutral pH is suitable. The container needs an open drainage hole.

Feed only during active growth and when the root ball is already moist. A foliage-plant fertilizer supports leafy growth, but accumulated salts can scorch margins and damage roots. Stop feeding as light levels decline, and occasionally flush the mix with plain water if deposits appear on its surface.

Temperature

A steady indoor range of 64–81 °F suits this plant. Keep it above 55 °F and protect it from cold, since chilling can cause soft spots followed by substantial leaf loss. Also avoid repeated temperature swings near an outside door, air conditioner, or heating vent.

It grows outdoors in USDA zones 10a through 12b, without frost. For a summer stay, wait for warm nights, acclimate the foliage, and bring it back before cool conditions return. Inspect it for pests.

Repotting

Repot in spring when roots fill the container, water runs through unusually fast, or growth slows despite otherwise suitable care. Choose a pot only slightly larger. A great excess of unused mix stays wet too long and raises the risk of oxygen-starved roots. Handle the root ball gently and keep the trunk at its former depth.

Leave a newly purchased plant undisturbed for several weeks. On a large specimen, replace about 1–1 in of surface mix each spring. Full repotting every other year is often enough.

Pruning

Pruning is not essential. Remove dead leaves with a clean tool instead of tearing the bark. If the tree outgrows its space, shorten a shoot just above a leaf in late winter or early spring. This may encourage branching, though it cannot guarantee a perfectly symmetrical crown.

Wear gloves and protect the floor because irritating white latex flows from cuts. Clean the blade between cuts. Do not combine severe pruning with repotting or a major relocation, as each operation adds stress.

Propagation

In spring or summer, take a semi-ripe stem cutting with at least one node and one leaf. A detached leaf may remain green and make roots but cannot form a new stem when no node is attached. Let the latex stop flowing, then set the base in an airy mix kept lightly moist in a warm, humid environment. Ventilate regularly to limit mold.

Air layering works well on thick stems. A wounded section is wrapped in damp sphagnum until roots form, then cut from the parent plant. Seed propagation is possible, but the necessary fruit is exceptionally uncommon indoors.

Common problems

  • Sudden leaf drop: excess water, a root ball that became too dry, cold, inadequate light, excessive fertilizer, or an abrupt move.
  • Brown or black spots: waterlogged mix, bacterial or fungal disease, temperature fluctuation, or scorch when the patch is dry and sun-exposed.
  • Dry, shriveled leaves: low humidity, insufficient watering, or overly strong direct light.
  • Small pale new leaves and slow growth: too little light, inadequate nutrition, or roots that have run out of room.
  • Pests: scale insects, mealybugs, aphids, thrips, and spider mites can hide beneath leaves and along veins. Isolate the plant, wipe away visible pests, and repeat inspections.
  • Root rot: an unpleasant smell, a soft base, and dark roots often reveal mix that stayed saturated too long.

The same symptom can have several causes. Assess light, moisture in the mix, temperature, roots, and pests together before taking action.

Toxicity

This plant is toxic to dogs, cats, and people when chewed or swallowed. Insoluble calcium oxalates irritate the mouth, tongue, and lips and can cause drooling, vomiting, or difficulty swallowing. The milky latex can also irritate skin. Keep the pot out of reach, wear gloves while pruning or taking cuttings, and wash exposed skin promptly. If ingestion or a significant reaction occurs, contact a veterinarian or Poison Control promptly.

Lower bound of the cited hardiness zone: a guide only — exposure, drainage and how long the cold lasts matter too.

These are starting points. Watch your plant: watering depends on light, temperature, pot and potting mix, and the same symptom can have several causes.

Sources

Last reviewed: September 23, 2026. Accepted name checked against the World Checklist of Vascular Plants (Kew) on September 23, 2026.

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