Areca palm

Identification and origin

Chrysalidocarpus lutescens belongs to the palm family, Arecaceae. It is still very often labeled under its former name, Dypsis lutescens. It is endemic to eastern Madagascar, where it grows in openings of wet forests and along riverbanks; there it is now endangered by the loss of its habitat. Grown throughout the tropics, it has naturalized in the Caribbean, Réunion, the Comoros, and northeastern India.

It is a clustering palm: several stems rise from a single base and form a dense clump. These smooth stems, marked with tight rings like bamboo, range from golden yellow to green, turning paler the more sun they get. The arching, pinnate fronds carry many pairs of narrow leaflets held up in a V on either side of a yellow-green rachis; that color is the origin of the epithet lutescens, “turning yellow.” The genus name refers to the egg-shaped fruits, which resemble a chrysalis.

In the wild the plant reaches 19.5–29.5 ft. Indoors it levels off around 6–7 ft and grows 6–10 in a year, so give it room. Panicles of small yellow flowers appear below the fronds in summer, followed by yellow-orange fruits, but an indoor areca rarely blooms.

Light

Place it near an east-, west-, or south-facing window, in bright light softened by a sheer curtain. A palm will put up with dim light for a while, but its health then declines slowly, without dramatic warning signs. On the other hand, direct afternoon sun through glass can scorch the leaflets. Turn the pot now and then so the clump grows evenly.

The foliage naturally turns yellowish when it gets a lot of sun; light shade often brings back a deeper green. Outdoors in tropical climates it tolerates full sun but prefers partial shade.

Watering

During active growth in spring and summer, keep the mix moist but never soggy. Feel the surface: when it is dry, water thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage hole, then empty the saucer. A palm should neither dry out completely nor sit in water; overwatering is the leading cause of root rot.

In winter, when light drops and growth slows, water less often and let the surface dry a little more. Watch the leaflet tips: if they turn brown all over the plant, the air is too dry or the root ball is short of water.

Areca palms like high humidity. When the heating is on and indoor humidity falls below 50%, set the pot on a tray of moist gravel or run a humidifier in the room.

Potting mix

It needs a porous mix rich in organic matter that holds some moisture yet drains quickly; a peat-free, soil-based houseplant mix works well. The pH can be acidic to neutral. The pot must have a drainage hole.

Fertilize only during active growth, two or three times a season, with a slow-release palm fertilizer or a balanced liquid feed. Choose a formula that also supplies micronutrients, especially iron and manganese. Too much fertilizer harms palms: it makes the tips of the lower fronds die back.

Temperature

Areca palms love warmth: ideally about 75–84 °F during the day and 64–70 °F at night. Do not let it drop below 59 °F. Cold causes reddish-brown dead patches on the fronds a few days later. Keep the plant away from doors opened in winter, poorly insulated windows, and air-conditioning vents, which bring cold air currents and sudden temperature swings.

In summer it enjoys a spell outdoors once nights stay warm, out of direct sun and after gradual acclimation. In the ground it is grown only in USDA zones 10a to 11b.

Repotting

Palms grow best when slightly pot-bound, and their roots are fragile. Repot only every two to three years, in spring or early summer, when roots fill the pot. Choose a container just slightly larger, heavy and stable, and handle the root ball with care. In years without repotting, simply replace the top layer of mix.

Pruning

An areca cannot be pruned to reduce its height: each stem grows from a single growing point at its tip, and palms cannot be cut back. Simply remove fully dry lower fronds at their base; browning of the lowest fronds is normal aging. Never use leaf-shine products, which damage the foliage; wipe the leaves with a damp cloth instead.

Propagation

Division is the easiest method. When repotting, ease out the root ball and find a group of well-rooted stems; separate it with a clean knife, keeping as many roots as possible, and pot it up in a container to match its size. Keep it warm and in filtered light while it settles in.

Seed is mostly a nursery technique. Seeds cleaned of their pulp germinate in three to four weeks if sown warm, at 77 °F or above. Soaking them in water changed daily can help. They are cold-sensitive: a single day at about 39 °F can kill them. Growers often sow very densely and pot the seedlings up together, which is why a store-bought pot usually holds many plants.

Common problems

• Brown frond tips: air too dry, lack of water, too much fertilizer, or simply being brushed against repeatedly.
• Yellowing fronds: too much sun, a nutrient deficiency, or overwatering if spots appear as well.
• Brown or yellow spots: overwatering, or a sudden chill.
• Root rot: poorly draining mix, a pot left standing in water, or watering too often.
• Spider mites: areca palms are very susceptible, especially in warm, dry air; fine webbing and stippled leaves give them away. Rinse the foliage and raise the humidity.
• Scale, whiteflies, and thrips: check the undersides of leaflets and the leaf sheaths; wipe them off with a damp cloth or dislodge them with a spray of water.

The same symptom can have several causes: always check light, root-ball moisture, temperature, and the condition of the roots together before acting.

Toxicity

The areca palm is listed as non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Its heart, meaning the terminal bud and the young leaves around it, does however contain cyanogenic glycosides: it should not be eaten, and swallowing it can cause nausea and vomiting. The toxicity is considered low, and the plant does not cause contact dermatitis. If it has been eaten, contact a doctor, a poison control center, or a veterinarian.