Dense cluster of orange Clivia miniata flowers surrounded by broad dark green leaves at Tallinn Botanic Garden.
Photo: Diego Delso — CC BY-SA 3.0

Family · Amaryllidaceae

Bush lily

Clivia miniata (Lindl.) Verschaff.

Natal lily · Clivia

Synonyms: Clivia miniata var. citrina, Clivia miniata var. flava, Clivia sulphurea, Imantophyllum barkeri, Imantophyllum miniatum, Imatophyllum atrosanguineum, Imatophyllum miniatum, Imatophyllum miniatum vanhouttei, Imatophyllum miniatum var. maximum, Imatophyllum miniatum var. pictum, Imatophyllum vanhouttei, Vallota miniata

At a glance

Grown
Indoors or outdoors depending on climateOutdoors year-round if winter lows stay above 20 °F
Light
Medium light – Bright indirect light
Water
Moderate watering
Difficulty
Easy
Comfortable temperatures
61–70 °F
Avoid below
41 °F
Height in cultivation
18 in – 2 ft
Hardiness
Down to 20 °F
Toxicity
Toxic to cats and dogs

In these collectionsHouseplantsOutdoor plantsEasy-care plants

Clivia miniata forms an evergreen fan of dark green leaves topped by rounded clusters of orange flowers. Long-lived and tolerant of modest light, it blooms most reliably after a cool winter rest with reduced watering.

Identification and origin

Clivia miniata belongs to the Amaryllidaceae and is native to South Africa. In the wild, this perennial grows beneath forest cover and on shaded slopes, where light is filtered and organic-rich ground drains rather than remaining waterlogged.

Despite its common name, it is not a true lily and does not form a true bulb. Thick, fleshy roots support an evergreen clump of leathery, strap-shaped leaves arranged in opposing fans. A potted plant commonly reaches 18 in – 2 ft tall. Its solid flower stalk carries a rounded cluster of funnel-shaped blooms, usually orange with yellow throats. Yellow and deeper red cultivars also occur. Pollinated flowers may produce green berries that slowly ripen red.

Light

Provide bright, indirect light. An east- or north-facing window is often suitable; at a stronger exposure, move the pot back or filter midday sun. Bush lily tolerates fairly deep shade, but inadequate light makes flowering less likely. Pale brown or bleached areas on the foliage often indicate excessive direct sun.

The plant can spend the warm season outdoors in bright shade. Introduce it gradually because leaves formed indoors scorch easily after a sudden move. Bring it inside before cold nights, and examine the leaf bases carefully so hidden pests do not come indoors with it.

Watering

During active growth, water thoroughly when the surface of the mix feels dry, then let excess water leave the drainage holes. Never allow the container to stand in a full saucer or waterproof cachepot. The large roots store moisture and are more vulnerable to a constantly saturated mix than to brief surface dryness.

In fall and early winter, sharply reduce water during the rest period. Give only enough to keep the entire root ball from becoming bone dry. When the flower stalk appears, increase moisture gradually as growth resumes. Always judge the mix, temperature, and activity of the plant rather than following a fixed calendar.

Potting mix

Use a peat-free, fertile but open mixture, such as a loam-based medium amended with leaf mold and a coarse drainage material. The container must have open holes. A mix that holds moderate moisture while admitting air suits the fleshy roots; dense, compacted soil encourages decay.

During active growth, apply a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer to an already moist root ball. Stop feeding through the cool rest and begin again once buds and new leaves are developing. Extra fertilizer cannot correct poor light or drainage, and accumulated salts may injure roots and leaf tips.

Temperature

After flowering and during growth, conditions around 61–70 °F are suitable. Protect the plant from cold air currents, heating vents, and abrupt fluctuations. It may briefly tolerate a minimum near 41 °F, but it is not frost hardy. Permanent outdoor planting is limited to mild climates in USDA zones 9a through 11b, preferably in shade.

To initiate flowering, keep a mature plant cool, around 50 °F, during its rest. Once the stalk becomes visible, gradually return it to about 61 °F and increase watering. Constantly warm winter conditions are a common reason that an otherwise healthy clivia fails to flower.

Repotting

Bush lily often flowers well with a crowded root system and dislikes disturbance. Repot only when roots lift the plant, deform the container, or occupy a badly broken-down mix, commonly after several years. Work after flowering and choose a new container only slightly wider than the old one.

Keep the neck above the surface and handle thick roots gently. Remove only tissue that is genuinely dead or soft, using a clean blade. Water once to settle the fresh mix, allow it to drain completely, and wait for renewed growth before fertilizing.

Pruning

No formative pruning is required. Remove a leaf only after it has turned completely yellow or suffered serious damage, cutting close to the base without injuring its neighbors. Cut off the spent flower stalk if berries are not wanted, since ripening fruit draws on the plant’s reserves for a long time.

Wear gloves because the sap and every plant part contain irritating or poisonous compounds. Clean tools after use. Do not tear leaves: irregular damage remains conspicuous on this slow-growing foliage.

Propagation

Division is the easiest method. After flowering, separate an offset that already has several leaves and its own roots, then place it in a small container with good drainage. Keep it in indirect light with the mix lightly moist while it establishes. A young division may need several growing seasons before it reaches flowering maturity.

Seed can be sown fresh from fully ripe berries. Remove all pulp, set the seeds on an airy medium, and maintain warmth at 61–70 °F. Germination and subsequent growth are slow. Seedlings also vary, so this method will not necessarily preserve the exact traits of a named cultivar.

Common problems

  • No flowers: an immature plant, oversized pot, inadequate light, warm winter rest, or unsuitable moisture can each contribute; consider every factor before intervening.
  • Yellow leaves and a soft base: excess water or blocked drainage is likely; let the surface dry and inspect the roots.
  • Pale brown patches: direct sun is too intense, especially after an abrupt move outdoors.
  • A short stalk trapped among leaves: conditions may have become too warm or dry as growth resumed; restore moderate warmth and even moisture gradually.
  • White cottony deposits: mealybugs hide deep between leaf bases; isolate the plant and remove them carefully.
  • Brown shells, stippling, or distorted growth: scale insects or mites may be present; inspect both surfaces of every leaf.

One symptom can have several causes. Assess root-ball moisture, light, temperature, recent changes, and pests together before selecting a response.

Toxicity

Bush lily is toxic to dogs, cats, horses, and people. Every part contains lycorine and other alkaloids, with the base and roots posing a particular concern. Ingestion can cause drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, and digestive pain; a large amount may produce more serious cardiovascular or neurological effects.

Keep the container beyond the reach of pets and young children. Wear gloves when dividing or cutting the plant, then wash hands and tools. If any part is swallowed or symptoms appear, promptly contact a veterinarian or Poison Control and provide the botanical name.

Lower bound of the cited hardiness zone: a guide only — exposure, drainage and how long the cold lasts matter too.

These are starting points. Watch your plant: watering depends on light, temperature, pot and potting mix, and the same symptom can have several causes.

Sources

Last reviewed: September 23, 2026. Accepted name checked against the World Checklist of Vascular Plants (Kew) on September 23, 2026.

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