Two Anthurium andraeanum flower heads with white spathes and pink and yellow spadices above glossy heart-shaped leaves.
Photo: Diego Delso — CC BY-SA 3.0

Family · Araceae

Flamingo flower

Anthurium andraeanum Linden ex André

Flamingo lily · Laceleaf · Painter's palette · Tail flower

Synonyms: Anthurium andraeanum album Pynaert, Anthurium andraeanum delicatissimum Pynaert, Anthurium andraeanum var. album (Pynaert) W.Bull, Anthurium andraeanum var. amoenum Pynaert, Anthurium andraeanum var. atrosanguineum Pynaert, Anthurium andraeanum var. divergens Sodiro, Anthurium andraeanum var. louisae Pynaert, Anthurium andraeanum var. roseum W.Bull, Anthurium andraeanum var. salmoneus W.Bull, Anthurium andraeanum var. sanguineum W.Bull, Anthurium venustum Sodiro

At a glance

Grown
Indoors or outdoors depending on climateOutdoors year-round if winter lows stay above 40 °F
Light
Bright indirect light
Water
Moderate watering
Difficulty
Intermediate
Comfortable temperatures
64–81 °F
Avoid below
59 °F
Height in cultivation
12 in – 2 ft
Hardiness
Down to 40 °F
Toxicity
Toxic to cats and dogs

In these collectionsHouseplantsOutdoor plants

Anthurium andraeanum is the classic flowering anthurium, recognized by waxy spathes held above dark green foliage. Native to wet forests in Colombia and Ecuador, it needs an airy potting mix, bright indirect light, and steady warmth.

Identification and origin

Anthurium andraeanum belongs to the arum family, Araceae. This evergreen perennial is native to Colombia and Ecuador in the wet tropical biome. There it grows as an epiphytic subshrub, with roots occupying an airy layer of organic material on a support rather than dense ground. The accepted name, published in 1877, has the authority Linden ex André; Anthurium venustum is one of its former synonyms.

Indoors, the upright clump generally reaches 12 in – 2 ft tall. Its alternate, glossy, dark green leaves have smooth edges and a heart-shaped base and can grow to 12 in long. What is commonly called the flower is actually a flower head. A broad, flat, often heart-shaped and shiny spathe surrounds a straight spadix covered in tiny flowers. The classic form is red with a cream or pale yellow spadix, but cultivated selections also offer pink, white, green, and mixed colors.

Each flower head may remain decorative for several weeks, and an established plant can bloom repeatedly. Elongated fleshy berries may follow, although houseplants rarely fruit. The straight spadix distinguishes this species from the smaller Anthurium scherzerianum, which usually has a curved or spiraled one.

Light

Provide bright, indirect light. An east- or west-facing window works well, as does a south-facing window screened by a sheer curtain. Strong direct sun can scorch the blades, while a position that is too dark slows growth and greatly reduces flowering.

Watch new leaves and flower production rather than relying on window direction alone. Dry damage on the exposed side calls for filtered sun. A healthy-looking plant that does not bloom again may lack light or nutrients. Move it gradually to avoid an abrupt change, and rotate the pot so the clump does not lean toward the window.

Watering

Push a finger about 1–2 in into the mix. Water when it is approaching dryness at that depth, using rainwater or filtered water at room temperature. Wet the entire root ball, allow surplus water to escape, then empty the saucer. The plant favors steady moisture, but its epiphytic roots cannot remain deprived of air.

During active growth, inspect the pot more often without imposing a fixed schedule. In fall and winter, reduced light slows water use, so wait longer between applications. A yellow leaf can result from overwatering, poor drainage, or inadequate nutrition; check the root ball before deciding.

Maintain humid air by grouping plants or setting the pot above a tray of damp gravel without letting its base touch the water. Brown edges can indicate dry air. However, avoid leaving foliage wet for long periods in stagnant air, which favors leaf spots.

Potting mix

Prepare an acidic, open medium that holds some moisture yet drains sharply. Two parts peat-free mix for acid-loving plants, one part coarse mineral aeration material, and one part medium orchid bark provide those qualities. A drainage hole is essential.

During active growth, apply orchid fertilizer moderately. Reduce feeding in fall and winter as growth slows. Fertilizer cannot correct suffocated roots; if water lingers, improve the mix structure first.

Temperature

The comfortable range is 64–81 °F. Keep the plant above 59 °F and away from cold air currents, radiators, and sudden changes. At 50 °F or below, the foliage may suffer serious injury. Very cold water can also shock the roots.

It can spend summer outdoors in bright shade after gradual acclimation, as long as nights remain warm. Bring it inside before conditions cool. Permanent planting in the ground is limited to USDA zones 11a through 12b in a sheltered, frost-free position.

Repotting

Keep a newly purchased plant in its container while roots have room and drainage works. Repot in spring afterward, generally every two or three years or when the root ball becomes crowded. Move up only one pot size: excessive volume stays wet too long and raises the risk of rot.

Set the plant at its former depth without compressing the new medium. Use the opportunity to inspect the roots and remove only dead portions with a clean tool. Healthy aerial roots may remain visible.

Pruning

No shaping is needed. Cut dead leaves and spent flower stalks at their bases to keep the clump tidy. Gently wipe broad leaves when dusty, without applying leaf-shine products. Wear gloves because the sap is irritating.

Propagation

In spring or summer, divide a multi-stemmed plant into sections that retain roots of their own. Pot each section in an airy mix and keep it warm in indirect light while it recovers.

A stem or rhizome cutting that includes a bud can also root in moist acidic mix under warm conditions. A section with leaves and aerial roots can begin rooting in water before potting. Fresh seed can be sown at 75–81 °F, but division and cuttings are more direct ways to preserve the features of a selected cultivar.

Common problems

  • Few or no blooms: insufficient light, inadequate feeding, or a plant still recovering.
  • Yellow leaves: excess water, slow drainage, or nutrient shortage; inspect the root ball before watering or feeding.
  • Brown edges: dry air, cold, or root stress.
  • Dry bleached areas: direct sun that is too strong, especially through glass.
  • Leaf spots: foliage kept wet for long periods and poor air movement can encourage them.
  • Soft, dark roots: rot caused by persistent moisture.
  • Pests: look for aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects under leaves and along leaf stalks.

The same symptom can have several causes. Consider light, temperature, root condition, mix moisture, and pests together before changing care.

Toxicity

Every part contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. When a person, dog, or cat chews the plant, these microscopic needles cause oral pain and irritation, swollen lips or tongue, drooling, nausea, vomiting, and trouble swallowing. Significant throat swelling is rare but can interfere with breathing.

Sap may also redden and sting human skin or eyes. Keep the plant out of reach of children and pets, wear gloves when cutting it, and wash your hands afterward. After ingestion or any breathing difficulty, contact a veterinarian or Poison Control promptly.

Lower bound of the cited hardiness zone: a guide only — exposure, drainage and how long the cold lasts matter too.

These are starting points. Watch your plant: watering depends on light, temperature, pot and potting mix, and the same symptom can have several causes.

Sources

Last reviewed: September 23, 2026. Accepted name checked against the World Checklist of Vascular Plants (Kew) on September 23, 2026.

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