Bay laurel

Identification and origin

Laurus nobilis belongs to the laurel family, Lauraceae. It is native to the Mediterranean Basin: from southern France to the Balkans and Turkey, the Middle East and North Africa. Laurus is the Latin name for the laurel, and nobilis means “noble” or “renowned.” In ancient Greece, its branches were woven into wreaths to crown victors.

It is an evergreen tree or large shrub, slow-growing and conical, with one or several trunks. In its native habitat it can exceed 59 ft; in cultivation it stays smaller, often 8–12 ft, and it is frequently kept under 8 ft by pruning.

The thick, leathery, elliptic leaves are glossy dark green and 2–4 in long; their edges are often wavy, and they give off a strong scent when crushed. The plant is dioecious: male and female flowers grow on separate plants. In spring, small clusters of yellowish-green flowers appear, inconspicuous but fragrant; potted plants rarely bloom. Only female plants, if a male is nearby, bear egg-shaped, purplish-black berries about 0 in long, each with a single seed.

The leaves flavor soups, stews, marinades and bouquet garni; they can be picked year-round, and the older leaves have the most flavor.

Light

In the garden, give it full sun or part shade; in hot climates, light afternoon shade suits it. In a container, it spends the warm season outdoors, in full sun after gradual acclimation.

Indoors in winter, give it the brightest spot you have. Failing that, a grow light on for twelve to sixteen hours a day makes up the difference. Long, lanky shoots with smaller leaves mean it needs more light.

Watering

Bay likes steady moisture but dislikes excess water. In a pot, water when the surface of the mix starts to feel dry, before the plant wilts, then let it drain: the mix should dry slightly between waterings without ever drying out completely.

In winter, growth slows: cut back on water. In a cool room where it stays dormant, keeping the root ball barely moist is enough. In the ground, an established plant needs water only during dry spells in its first year. Spotted or yellowing leaves often point to roots that are too wet or a plant that needs repotting.

Potting mix

It accepts clay, loam or sandy soils as long as they drain well, and it prefers rich, slightly acidic soil. In a container, use a loam-based, peat-free potting mix with added horticultural grit for drainage and stability. The pot needs drainage holes; terracotta works well.

From mid-spring to late summer, give container plants a liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks, or use slow-release granules. In the ground, a mulch of well-rotted organic matter in late winter is enough.

Temperature

Bay laurel is hardy in USDA zones 8a to 10b. It generally tolerates 23 °F, and a little colder in a sheltered spot; it is hardier in the ground than in a pot. Frost and cold winds damage the foliage, especially young shoots.

In a pot, the roots can freeze through the container: wrap it in burlap or bubble wrap and raise it on pot feet. Where winters are harsher, move it into a bright garage, an unheated sunporch or a cool room. Between 36–61 °F, it stays dormant and needs little light and very little water. Move it back outside in spring, once nights stay around 50 °F or above, getting it used to the sun gradually.

Repotting

Repot in spring every two or three years, into a pot only slightly larger. Large specimens can go back into the same pot: lift the root ball, trim off about a third of the roots, and replant in fresh mix. In years without repotting, replace the top 2 in of mix.

Pruning

Bay laurel takes pruning very well and lends itself to topiary: pyramids, balls, standards, and braided or spiral stems. Trim topiary in summer with pruners rather than shears, which leave unsightly half-cut leaves; cut each shoot just above a bud facing the direction you want it to grow.

Older plants tolerate hard pruning but regrow slowly: spread it over two or three seasons, in late spring. At the same time of year, cut back tips damaged by winter.

Propagation

Bay laurel is slow and difficult to propagate.

• Cuttings: the fastest method. Take softwood cuttings in early summer or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer, and keep the mix moist. Rooting takes several months, often three to nine.
• Seed: seeds form only on female plants. Sow them as soon as they are collected in fall, with the fleshy coat removed; soak dried seed in warm water for twenty-four hours. Germination is erratic and can take six to twelve months, in a warm spot.
• Layering: in fall, bend a low branch down and pin it to the soil; rooting can take a year.

Common cultivars: ‘Aurea’, with golden-yellow foliage that is brightest in spring; the angustifolia form, with narrow, wavy, pale green leaves that are also good for cooking; ‘Saratoga’, a fruitless male hybrid with rounded leaves that resists psyllids and scale.

Common problems

• Thickened leaves curled down at the edges, turning yellow then brown: bay sucker, a psyllid. It rarely weakens the plant and treatment is not needed.
• Scale and sooty mold: scale insects, common on indoor plants, leave the leaves coated in a black deposit and slow growth.
• Leaf spots: waterlogged roots, wet weather or old potting mix; repot in spring.
• Yellow leaves: losing a few old leaves is normal. In pots a nutrient deficiency is possible, but overwatering and cold are more common causes.
• Cracked bark at the base of the stems: cold damage. If the growth above it is dead, cut back to green wood.
• Root rot, powdery mildew and anthracnose: less common.

A symptom can have several causes: consider watering, drainage, light and any recent cold together.

Toxicity

Toxic to dogs, cats and horses: eugenol and other essential oils cause vomiting and diarrhea, and eating many whole leaves can block the intestine. For people toxicity is low, but the leaves are not meant to be eaten: they are sharp and can cut the mouth or digestive tract and cause choking. Remove them before serving. Call a veterinarian if an animal eats it.