Bird of paradise

Identification and origin

Strelitzia reginae belongs to the family Strelitziaceae. It is native to South Africa, from the Cape provinces to KwaZulu-Natal, where the climate is subtropical.

It is an evergreen perennial that forms broad clumps from underground rhizomes. Its stiff leaves, gray-green to blue-green, recall those of a banana plant: the oval, wavy-edged blade is 12–18 in long and sits on a leaf stalk 2–3 ft long. In a container it usually reaches 3–5 ft tall and 2–4 ft wide.

The flower is spectacular. A hard, pointed bract called the spathe sits at a right angle to the flower stalk, forming a bird’s beak. The flowers emerge from it one at a time: each has three brilliant orange sepals and three vivid blue petals, two of which are joined into an arrow-shaped nectary. In the wild, birds pollinate it: when they perch to sip nectar, the petals open and dust their feet with pollen. A flower head often exceeds 6 in, lasts for several weeks, and makes an excellent cut flower. The fruits are capsules holding many seeds, each with an orange aril. The cultivar ‘Mandela’s Gold’ has yellow and blue-violet flowers.

The genus name honors Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, queen consort of George III; the epithet reginae means “of the queen.”

Light

Light is the key to success. Indoors, aim for three to four hours of direct sun a day, in an unobstructed south-facing window or a bright, clear east-facing one. In midsummer, though, shield it from harsh afternoon sun, especially behind west-facing glass, to prevent leaf scorch. Give the pot a quarter turn at each watering so it grows evenly.

Too little light is the most common reason for a weak plant that never blooms. Outdoors it grows in full sun to part shade.

Watering

Water when the top 1–1 in of the potting mix feels dry. Then moisten the whole root ball thoroughly with tepid water, ideally in the morning, and empty the saucer about 15 minutes later so the roots never sit in water.

During active growth in spring and summer, it is a thirsty plant. In winter, during its rest period, give only enough water to keep the roots from drying out. Leaves that curl and lose color can mean either the mix is too dry or overwatering has damaged the roots, so always check the root ball before drawing conclusions.

Keep the air fairly humid, above 50% relative humidity if you can; a humidifier or a tray of wet pebbles helps while the heat is on. Once established in the ground, on the other hand, the plant is quite drought tolerant.

Potting mix

Choose a rich, peat-free, soil-based potting mix that holds some moisture while draining well. The plant adapts to loam, clay, or sandy soils and to acidic through slightly alkaline pH, as long as water does not stand. Use a large pot with a drainage hole and a removable saucer.

During active growth, feed with a balanced fertilizer every two to four weeks, always after watering so the roots are not burned. Stop feeding in fall and winter: too much fertilizer produces leaves at the expense of flowers.

Temperature

While growing, it likes 64–75 °F by day and 55–61 °F at night. A winter rest at about 55 °F, day and night, is important for vigor and bloom. Do not let it fall below 50 °F, and keep it away from heating vents, air conditioning, and blasts of cold or hot air. In a greenhouse or sunroom, ventilate once temperatures climb above 68 °F.

It can summer outdoors: move it out once nights stay above 64 °F and bring it back in when they drop toward 61–64 °F, allowing a week to acclimate at each move. In hot weather, above 70 °F, give it a semi-shaded spot with good air circulation. Frost damages leaves and flowers; in the ground it is grown in USDA zones 10a to 12b, where it handles wind and coastal conditions well.

Repotting

Repot young plants in early spring into a container one or two sizes larger. Mature plants bloom better when somewhat, but not excessively, root-bound: repot them about every other year, and in the years between, top-dress by scraping away 1–1 in of old mix and replacing it with fresh.

Pruning

No pruning is needed. Simply remove dead leaves and spent flowers gently as they appear, which also shows off the fresh blooms.

Propagation

Division is the most reliable method, done in spring at repotting time. With a clean, sterilized knife, cut sections that each have two or three leaves and a piece of rhizome with roots. Keep the divisions lightly moist, warm, and out of direct sun: new growth appears after about six weeks. A divided plant may take several years to flower again.

You can sow seed in spring, but the thick-coated seeds are hard to germinate, so soak them before sowing. Expect about five years before a young plant blooms for the first time.

Common problems

• No flowers: plant too young, too little light, too little or too much fertilizer, a pot that is too big, or a recent division.
• Weak plant with limp, drooping leaves: not enough daily sun, or no cool winter rest.
• Curling leaves that lose color: mix too dry, or overwatering that has damaged the roots.
• Yellow or brown spots on the leaves: leaf spot disease.
• Root rot: overwatering or poor drainage.
• Pests: scale insects and mealybugs are the main enemies, so check the leaf stalks. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, keeping it off the leaves, then wipe or rinse them away; repeat every 10 days for several weeks to catch new hatchlings. Also watch for spider mites and, outdoors, grasshoppers that can chew the foliage.

The same symptom can have several causes: always weigh light, watering, temperature, and root health together.

Toxicity

Toxic to dogs, cats, and horses, and mildly toxic to people. The fruit and seeds contain most of the gastrointestinal irritants; eating them causes mild nausea, vomiting, and drowsiness. The plant does not cause contact dermatitis. If pets or small children share your home, remove spent flowers before fruit forms, and if anything is swallowed, call your veterinarian or Poison Control.