Creeping fig

Identification and origin

Ficus pumila belongs to the mulberry family, Moraceae, along with weeping fig, rubber plant, and fiddle-leaf fig. It is native to East Asia: central and southern China, Japan including the Ryukyu and Bonin Islands, Korea, Taiwan, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar. In the wild it climbs tree trunks and rocks under the canopy of subtropical forest. Introduced elsewhere, it can become invasive.

It is an evergreen woody vine that climbs like English ivy, using clusters of short aerial roots that form adhesive pads; these secrete a sticky latex that glues the stems to their support. Outdoors, in good conditions, it covers 8–15 ft of height, and more on a large wall; juvenile stems grow up to 12 in a year and stay flat against the surface, less than 2 in thick. The epithet pumila means “dwarf”: its leaves are tiny compared with those of other figs.

The plant has two growth stages. In the juvenile stage, the one grown in pots, the heart-shaped leaves are under 1 in long; puckered, they emerge burgundy, turn bronze, then green. In the adult stage, branches without aerial roots grow out from the wall and bear oval, thick, glossy leaves 2–4 in long. These branches produce pear-shaped figs about 2 in long, green flecked with white and turning purple, insipid and pollinated by tiny wasps. Flowers and fruits almost never appear indoors. The stems contain a milky latex.

Cultivars include ‘Minima’, with very small leaves, ideal for terrariums; ‘Quercifolia’, with lobed leaves like miniature oak leaves; ‘Variegata’ and ‘Snowflake’, edged in white; and ‘Curly’, with curled leaves marked by a variegated stripe.

Light

Give it a bright room, but far enough from the window that direct sun doesn’t touch the foliage. An east- or south-facing window is best; strong western afternoon light is too much. Variegated forms need a little more light or they lose their markings. Outdoors it prefers part shade or dappled light.

Watering

It likes more even moisture than the tree-type figs. Water thoroughly until water runs out the bottom, then empty the saucer after about 15 minutes. Water again as soon as the top 0 in of the mix is dry. Never let the root ball dry out completely, or the leaves will brown and drop. On the other hand, soggy mix or a pot without drainage leads to root rot.

In winter, with less light, the plant takes up water more slowly: space out waterings to match, but keep the mix lightly moist.

Humidity matters year-round, even when heating or air conditioning dries the air. Aim for more than 50% relative humidity, using a humidifier or a tray of wet pebbles; a hygrometer lets you check.

Potting mix

Use a conventional soil-based potting mix lightened with some perlite for drainage, in a pot with a drainage hole. If you use a decorative cachepot, lift out the growing pot to water and let it drain completely before putting it back.

Fertilize only in spring and summer, every other week, with a balanced fertilizer at half strength. Too much fertilizer makes the leaves drop.

Temperature

The ideal is a steady 64–75 °F with good air circulation. In winter you can let it drop a little, very gradually; it tolerates cool nights of 45–55 °F. Above all, avoid sudden changes: air currents from doors and windows, air conditioning, and heating vents cause leaf drop.

In the ground it is grown in USDA zones 8a to 11b. Foliage is damaged around 10–16 °F, and severe cold can kill it back to the ground; wait until new growth starts in spring before removing dead stems.

Repotting

Repot in spring, when the plant recovers fastest, and only every two years if needed. Go up just one pot size: it prefers to be a little snug.

Pruning

You can prune at any time; to stimulate new growth, spring and summer are best. Use clean tools and wear gloves, because the latex that oozes from cuts is irritating and stains clothing and furniture; a spray of cold water on the cuts reduces dripping.

Don’t remove the aerial roots. You can let the stems trail or guide them up a moss-covered pole, which also holds humidity: a tube of plastic netting filled with sphagnum moss and pushed deep into the pot works well. Creeping fig also covers a topiary form very quickly. Outdoors, prune regularly to keep it in bounds and remove adult shoots to keep the fine juvenile foliage.

Propagation

In spring, take tip cuttings 6 in long, cut just below a node. Insert them in a small pot of rooting mix, cover everything with a clear plastic bag, and set it in filtered light. Juvenile stems root easily without rooting hormone. Once new growth appears, remove the bag and water as you would an adult plant; by late summer the young plant can move to a slightly larger pot with regular potting mix.

Common problems

• Dry, shriveled leaves: direct sun, overly dry air, or uneven watering; a root ball that dried out completely makes leaves dry up and fall.
• Leaf drop: air currents, sudden temperature changes, or too much fertilizer.
• Wilting despite moist mix: root rot from overwatering or a pot without drainage.
• Fading variegation: not enough light.
• White, sticky droplets: just latex oozing from a small wound.
• Pests: scale, aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and spider mites; check leaf undersides.

The same symptom can have several causes: always check light, watering, humidity, and temperature before drawing conclusions.

Toxicity

Creeping fig is toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. As in other figs, its milky latex is irritating: if swallowed, it irritates the mouth and digestive tract and can cause drooling, loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhea; on skin it can cause irritation or dermatitis. Wear gloves when pruning and keep the plant out of reach of pets.