Peacock plant

Identification and origin

Goeppertia makoyana belongs to the prayer plant family, Marantaceae, alongside Maranta leuconeura. It is native to the tropical rainforests of southeastern Brazil, particularly the state of Espírito Santo, where it grows in the warm, shaded, humid understory. Long classified in the genus Calathea, it has been moved to Goeppertia, but garden centers still sell it as Calathea makoyana. Its species name honors the Jacob-Makoy nursery in Liège, Belgium, which introduced it into cultivation.

It is an evergreen herbaceous perennial that forms a dense clump from rhizomes. Indoors it usually reaches 12 in – 2 ft tall and 8–12 in wide; planted outdoors in a tropical climate it can exceed 2–4 ft. Its oval leaves, papery thin with slightly wavy edges, stand upright at the end of long maroon leaf stalks. The blade, 4–8 in long, has a pale green to cream background, dark green veins and edges, and a row of dark blotches on each side of the midrib: the effect recalls a peacock feather or a stained-glass window, hence the names cathedral windows and brain plant. The underside repeats the same pattern in reddish purple.

Like its relatives, it moves: in the evening the leaves rise and fold up, then open again at sunrise, in response to changes in light and temperature. The flowers, rare indoors, are small and tubular, white with purple lobes, borne in pairs among spirally arranged green bracts. It is sometimes confused with other calatheas (Goeppertia insignis, G. majestica), with Ctenanthe species, or with the prayer plant.

Light

In the wild it lives in the shade of tall trees. Give it bright but indirect light or partial shade: in summer near an east- or north-facing window; in winter, when light levels drop, a south-facing windowsill works better, as long as the sun does not hit the leaves. It tolerates fairly low light, but its colors fade when light runs short.

Direct sun is its enemy: it washes out the pattern, scorches the leaves, and encourages spider mites. If bleached or dry patches appear on the most exposed leaves, move it away from the glass.

Watering

The mix should stay moist at all times, never soggy. Water as soon as the surface starts to dry, moistening the whole root ball, then empty the saucer: constantly wet soil causes root rot that is hard to reverse. On the other hand, a mix that dries out completely makes the leaves roll and turn brown.

Use rainwater or distilled water when you can: fluoride in tap water browns the leaf edges. In fall and winter, let the surface dry before watering again, but never let the root ball dry out completely.

Air humidity matters as much as watering: aim for about 60% relative humidity. Mist the foliage often, set the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or run a humidifier, especially while the heating is on. Leaves that roll or brown at the tips often point to air that is too dry.

Potting mix

Use a porous mix rich in organic matter, lightened with perlite so it drains well while still holding moisture. A peat-free houseplant mix works as long as it stays airy. It prefers an acidic to neutral pH. The pot must have a drainage hole.

During the growing season, from spring to late summer, apply a balanced fertilizer every four weeks. Stop feeding in winter.

Temperature

The peacock plant is happiest between 64–75 °F, with as little fluctuation as possible. Keep it above 59 °F all year: below that, and especially after a sudden chill, the foliage is damaged. Keep it away from cold air currents, doors that open to the outside, radiators, and air-conditioning vents.

It can be grown in the ground only in USDA zones 11a to 12b, in a warm, sheltered, frost-free spot. Elsewhere it can spend summer outdoors in a container on a shaded patio, as long as nights stay mild.

Repotting

Repot in spring or summer once the clump fills the pot, which usually takes a few years. Choose a pot only one or two sizes larger than the root ball, to avoid a mass of mix that stays soggy, and fresh, light, rich mix. Set the plant so the top of the root ball sits just below the surface. This is also the right time to divide: dividing about every two years restores vigor to crowded clumps.

Pruning

No pruning is needed. Dust that settles on the broad leaves slows photosynthesis: wipe them gently with a soft, damp cloth as needed.

Propagation

Dividing the rhizomes in late spring is the most reliable method. Unpot the plant, gently loosen the root ball, and separate the clump into several pieces, each with roots and a few leaves. Pot each piece in a small container of light mix, water it, and keep the divisions warm, in bright shade, and in very humid air until they settle in. Cuttings are also possible.

Common problems

• Leaves rolling or turning brown: air too dry, a mix that dried out, or tap water high in fluoride.
• Bleached or scorched patches: direct sun.
• Dull colors: too little light, or light so strong it washes out the pattern.
• Collapsing plant, mushy base: root rot from waterlogged mix.
• Leaves damaged after a cold snap: temperatures too low or erratic, or a cold air current.
• Fine webbing, stippled leaves: spider mites, especially in a sunny, dry spot.
• Translucent, water-soaked patches: edema, when the plant cannot transpire properly, most often in winter when the mix stays too wet.
• Pests: aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs; check leaf undersides and the base of the leaf stalks.

The same symptom can have several causes: weigh light, watering, humidity, and temperature together before acting.

Toxicity

No toxicity is reported: calatheas are classified as non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses, which makes this a good choice for a home with pets.