Toringo crabapple

Identification and origin

Malus toringo belongs to the rose family, Rosaceae, like orchard apples, hawthorns and cotoneasters. It was long sold as Malus sieboldii and Malus sargentii, names now treated as synonyms of this species. Its native range covers north-central, south-central and southeastern China, Korea, Manchuria and Sakhalin, and it is also described as native to Japan. It has escaped locally in northern Europe, Great Britain, Germany and the northeastern United States and Canada.

It is a deciduous shrub or small tree, often multi-stemmed, with a moderate growth rate. It usually reaches 6–10 ft tall and 6–15 ft wide: its dense crown of spreading to weeping branches widens with age and ends up clearly wider than tall. Young stems are purple and finely hairy.

The alternate, ovate leaves are dark green; some have three lobes and some have none, and this mix of shapes on a single shoot helps identify it. They turn yellow in fall.

In spring, pale pink buds open into fragrant white flowers about 1 in across, held in clusters and visited by bees and butterflies. Bloom is very heavy and often stronger every other year. The fruit, tiny apples 0–1 in across, yellow to red, ripens in fall and lasts a long time on the branches, feeding birds and small mammals.

The cultivar ‘Tina’, sometimes assigned to this species, forms a low, spreading shrub 3–4 ft tall.

Light

Plant it in full sun, with at least six hours of direct sun a day: this is what drives heavy bloom and fruit set. Too much shade means fewer flowers and fruit, although it tolerates light partial shade.

In a container, avoid spots in front of a wall that soaks up the day’s heat: the tree dislikes intense heat, and a pot exposed to that reflected warmth dries out very quickly.

Watering

It likes moist, well-drained soil. After planting, water regularly through the first seasons, as soon as the surface dries, to help the roots establish. Once settled in the ground, it tolerates passing droughts as well as brief flooding.

In a container, things are different: the root ball dries quickly. During the growing season, water thoroughly as soon as the surface of the mix starts to dry, until water runs from the drainage holes. Never let the mix dry out completely, especially during bloom and fruit set: a lack of water makes flowers and young fruit drop. In winter, simply keep the root ball slightly moist. Tap water is usually fine, because apples dislike acidic water and soil.

Potting mix

In the ground it adapts to most soils: clay, loam, sand or shallow rocky soil, acidic or alkaline. It still prefers moist, well-drained, moderately fertile soil, where it performs best.

In a container, choose a mix that holds water yet drains well, to avoid both quick drying and waterlogged roots.

Temperature

Very cold hardy, it suits USDA zones 4a to 8b and, in the ground, survives winters down to about -29 °F. Being deciduous, it spends the winter dormant, and it needs that winter cold.

The roots of a potted tree are far more exposed than those of a tree in the ground: protect the container from hard freezes, for example in a cold frame or wrapped in insulation.

Repotting

A tree in the ground is not repotted: simply plant it in well-prepared, well-drained soil and mulch the base.

In a container or as a bonsai, repot in spring: every year for a young plant, every two or three years for an older one. Lightly prune the roots at the same time, especially if the tree is weakening, and use a slightly larger container.

As for feeding, in a container a solid organic fertilizer every four weeks or a balanced liquid fertilizer every week during the growing season is enough. Avoid very nitrogen-rich fertilizers during bloom and fruit set: they favor leaves over fruit.

Pruning

It needs little pruning. If necessary, remove deadwood, crossing branches and crowded twigs to open up the crown: good air movement limits disease, especially where summers are humid.

Prune preferably in late winter, while the tree is dormant. Avoid spring pruning: fresh cuts at that season make it easier for fire blight bacteria to enter. On grafted trees, keep the graft union above the soil.

Propagation

Crabapple species are sown in fall, in a seedbed or in a flat left outdoors, so that winter cold breaks seed dormancy.

Cultivars are propagated by grafting: chip budding in late summer and grafting in midwinter. Cuttings and air layering are also possible, especially to produce a tree intended for bonsai.

Common problems

• Spots on leaves and fruit: apple scab. This species resists it well but is not completely immune.
• Shoots that suddenly die back: fire blight, which the species resists fairly well.
• Wounds on the bark: canker. Remove affected parts, carefully seal the wounds and disinfect your tools.
• White felt on young leaves: powdery mildew, uncommon on this species.
• Various leaf spots: leaf spot diseases, more common in hot, humid summers.
• Chewed leaves, silken nests: Japanese beetles and eastern tent caterpillars.
• Discolored, curled or sticky leaves: aphids, spider mites or scale.
• Tunnels in the wood: borers.

Where they are common, deer readily browse its shoots. A symptom can have several causes: before treating, check exposure, watering and the condition of the roots.

Toxicity

Crabapples are toxic to dogs, cats and horses: the stems, leaves and seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides, which release cyanide, especially when the leaves are wilting. Poisoning can cause brick-red mucous membranes, dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, panting and shock.

The flowers are edible in small amounts, but they too contain cyanide precursors; the small fruit is edible, but always remove the seeds. Keep wilted leaves, fallen fruit and pruning debris out of reach of animals. If any is eaten, contact a veterinarian or a poison control center.